This is a working demo of a new site for Two Seasons. Look around, then read what went into it. Same as a bid: nothing is committed until you say so. A proposed site for Two Seasons. See the proposal

Questions we get asked in driveways

These are the ones that come up standing next to a condenser at four in the afternoon, answered the way they get answered there. Plainly, with a number where there is one.

The visit, and what it costs

What does the $75 service call actually cover?

The fee is real and published. What it covers has never been written down in one place, so here it is.

Proposed wording. Tony, correct this and we will change it.

A licensed contractor at your house inside a scheduled window. A look at the whole system rather than the one part making noise. And what is wrong, in plain language, with a written price before anyone touches anything. If you say no, you owe $75 and nothing else.

Does the $75 come off the repair if I have you do the work?

Proposed wording. Tony, this is the industry norm. Confirm or change it.

Yes. If you tell us to go ahead and we do the repair on the same visit, the $75 comes off the bill. You are paying for the diagnosis, and once the diagnosis turns into work, you should not pay for it twice.

If you decide not to go ahead, the $75 stands and the answer is still yours to take to whoever you like.

Is it more for a weekend?

Saturday and Sunday are by appointment rather than standard hours.

Proposed wording. Tony, confirm or change it.

The $75 is the weekday number. A weekend visit is quoted when you book it, so you hear the figure before you agree to it rather than reading it on an invoice afterwards.

Do you do free estimates?

A diagnosis costs $75, and that is on purpose. A free estimate is a sales call, and its cost is already sitting inside the quote you get at the end of it. Pricing a whole replacement is a different visit and a different conversation, so ask about that one on the phone.

More on how pricing works

How do I pay, and is there financing?

Credit cards are accepted. There is no financing program and no maintenance plan today. Every other site in this category has both, and inventing them here would be the easiest lie on this page to tell.

When something breaks

It is running but the house is not getting any cooler.

Four usual suspects: a capacitor, a contactor, a clogged condensate drain that tripped the float switch, or a low charge with a leak sitting behind it. Those are four very different afternoons and four very different invoices, which is exactly why the first thing anybody should do is find out which one you have.

Before you call, look at the filter and at the breaker. Both are free to check and both occasionally end the whole story.

The outside unit hums but the fan is not turning.

That is usually a failed run capacitor, and it is one of the cheaper faults on the list. Shut the system off at the thermostat and leave it off. Do not start the fan with a stick: it is a live 240 volt machine and it will hurt you.

There is water on the floor near the indoor unit, or a stain on the ceiling.

The condensate drain is almost certainly clogged. The pan filled, and the float switch either did its job and shut the system down or did not and the water went looking for somewhere else to be. Turn the system off and call.

Do not pour anything down the drain line hoping to clear it. Half the ceiling repairs in this trade start there.

There is ice on the copper line outside.

Turn it off and let it thaw. Ice means either airflow (a filter, a collapsed flex duct, a dirty coil) or charge (a leak). Running a frozen system is how a compressor dies, and the compressor is the expensive part.

The breaker keeps tripping. Can I just keep resetting it?

No. A breaker that trips repeatedly is doing its job, and every reset feeds a fault that is already drawing current it should not. Leave it off and call.

Why does it run all afternoon in August and never shut off?

Because equipment here is sized for a design day in the mid nineties, and August regularly is not that. On a 104 degree afternoon a correctly sized system runs continuously, and that is the design working rather than failing.

The number that matters is the difference between the air going into the return and the air coming out of a supply vent. Roughly twenty degrees is healthy. Running constantly and still losing ground is the actual symptom worth calling about.

Replacing a system

How long should a system last in Texas heat?

Ten to fifteen years is the usual window, and Central Texas sits at the low end of it because a system here runs eight months a year with an attic full of 140 degree air on top of it. A twelve year old unit is not automatically finished. It is just old enough that a big repair deserves a second thought.

Do I repair this one or replace it?

Four things decide it: how old it is, what this repair costs, what refrigerant it runs, and how many repairs it has had in the last two years. A common rule of thumb is to multiply the age by the repair quote and see whether the result has gotten uncomfortable.

Some days that conversation costs the shop the bigger sale. It is still the right conversation. How a replacement is decided.

Somebody told me my refrigerant is obsolete. Is that a sales tactic?

Not in the case of R-22. It has not been produced or imported in the United States since 2020, so what is left is reclaimed stock and it gets more expensive every year. If a system on R-22 has a leak, that changes the math honestly.

R-410A is a different story: it is still available, and a leak on its own is not a reason to replace anything. The refrigerant is printed on the nameplate of the outdoor unit, and it moves this decision more than almost anything else.

What size system does my house need?

That comes from a load calculation, a Manual J, which accounts for your windows, insulation, duct layout and which way the house faces. Square footage divided by a magic number is a guess, and the guess is usually too big.

Oversized is not safer. An oversized system short cycles, never runs long enough to pull moisture out of the air, and leaves you with a house that is cold and clammy at the same time.

Do I need a permit to replace an air conditioner?

Inside city limits, yes, and the cities in this service area are clear about it. Leander requires a permit for construction inside the city, mechanical work included. Cedar Park lists heating and air conditioning equipment by name on its own list of work that needs one. Round Rock pulls a mechanical permit with a final inspection. Georgetown requires one to install, alter or repair a system, through a registered contractor.

Out in unincorporated Williamson County there is no county residential mechanical permit, and Leander's extraterritorial jurisdiction only requires permits for signs and for water and wastewater connections. Which side of a city line your house sits on is a real question and worth asking before the work starts.

Will you work on a system you did not install?

Yes, and that is most of the work. Nearly everything in a Leander or Cedar Park subdivision was put in by the builder years before anyone here saw it.

Hours, scheduling, and where we go

What are your hours?

Monday to Friday, 7:00am to 5:00pm. Saturday and Sunday by appointment. There is no overnight line, and there is no night crew to answer it. Two people would rather tell you that than promise midnight and not show up.

Can you come out today?

Some days yes and some days no, and it depends entirely on what the day already looks like. Call and you will get a straight read on it rather than a maybe that turns into tomorrow at six in the evening.

Which towns do you cover?

Leander, Cedar Park, Georgetown, Round Rock and Liberty Hill. If you are outside that, call anyway. Sometimes the answer is yes and sometimes the honest answer is that somebody closer will get there faster.

Do I have to be home?

Somebody over eighteen does, because the diagnosis ends in a decision about money and that decision is not ours to make on your behalf. Access to the attic and to the electrical panel is the other half of it.

What can I do before the truck gets here?

Clear whatever is stacked under the attic hatch. Put the dog somewhere. Know where the outdoor unit is and whether anything is growing into it. If you can read the model and serial off the nameplate over the phone, that alone can put the right part on the truck before it leaves.

Question that is not on this page?

Ask it out loud. A two minute phone call settles most of what a page like this cannot, and nobody is going to try to sell you a system for asking.

Your house is not going to fix itself, and it is not getting any cooler out there.

$75 to come out. A licensed tech, a real look at the whole system, and a straight answer about what is actually wrong with it.

Monday to Friday, 7:00am to 5:00pm. Saturday and Sunday by appointment.

Call (512) 591-5915 Book